Black walnuts are a native American crop with shells harder than those of English walnuts and with a more astringent, tannic taste. If you prefer the English variety, by all means substitute them.

Because this is a very boozy cake, we’re recommending that you substitute apple cider for half of the apple brandy if you’re not a liquor fan. Some of our tasters liked the full amount of brandy, but many found it overpowering.

Two days before serving, soak the raisins in the apple brandy overnight. The cake needs to be baked the day before it is served and refrigerated overnight. (Adapted from a recipe by Huw Griffiths, pastry chef at the Tabard Inn in Northwest Washington.)