Laura Frankel thinks about Rosh Hashanah in simple terms.

“A time for mom to shine,” said Frankel, executive chef at Spertus, a Jewish culture and learning center in Chicago. That’s because the Jewish new year, which is the first high holy day to occur each autumn, usually isn’t celebrated with the sort of big gathering you might have for a Passover seder, but rather a smaller, more contemplative meal with close family.

And though there are some traditional symbolic foods included, such as a big round challah loaf to represent the continuing cycle of life, and apples dipped in honey to start off the new year on a sweet note, Frankel said the meal most often is built around one of Mom’s comfort meals, such as a brisket or roast chicken.